Gunma Off the Grid

Best for: A natural escape

Hoshi Onsen Chojukan is a true escape, deep in Joshin'etsukogen National Park. A tranquil stream runs through the secluded resort, and the surrounding forested mountains make it feel a world away from city life. Relax in spacious rooms surrounded by nature, stroll along the river or hike through the forest. A range of walking, hiking, and trekking trails are within a short drive.

The resort has three different bath houses, with natural hot spring water. The largest, Hoshi no Yu, is an atmospheric wooden bath house built over a century ago, offering mixed bathing. Day visitors are welcome to use the facilities, but for full seclusion and relaxation, book one of the traditional Japanese tatami rooms for a night or two.

How to get to Hoshi Onsen

Best for: A winter escape

The narrow Manza Highway winds through remote, birch-forested mountains to Manza Onsen. The onsen town enjoys deep snowfalls in winter, and is a popular ski resort. Manza Onsen is distinguished by its milky white rotenburo (outdoor baths) with views across the snowy mountains. Relaxing in a hot bath while gazing at the postcard-perfect scenery is an enchanting way to spend a winter day. For a more active holiday, head to Manza Onsen Ski Resort. It has runs for skiers and snowboarders of all levels.

Manza Prince Hotel is a year-round resort, but it is especially appealing in winter for ski-in, ski-out access and its outdoor onsen bath with snowy mountain views. The hotel is committed to safety and social distancing, with measures to ensure a safe and comfortable stay. Rooms are thoroughly sanitized and sealed with a quality assurance sticker, monitors display the busyness of the baths so you can choose a quiet slot, and social distancing measures are in place in the restaurants and public spaces.

How to get to Manza

Best for: Culture and history

Visit Yakushi Onsen Hatago to step back in time. The collection of historic buildings are arranged like a country village, with its charming, thatched-roof buildings connected by walkways. Some of the buildings double as museums, with impressive displays of Edo period (1603–1868) artifacts including toys, furniture, and weaponry. The guest rooms are furnished with antiques, and many feature private baths.

Guests can enjoy exquisitely presented traditional multi-course cuisine, featuring seasonal ingredients, handmade soba noodles and local specialities, such as Joshu beef.

Enjoy a hike through the surrounding forests and along the Nuru River, or drive about 30 minutes to Agatsumakyo Gorge, a forested valley. The trails are beautiful all year, with azaleas in spring, greenery in summer, colorful foliage in autumn, and snow-covered landscapes in winter.

Best for: Living like a local

Get a taste for rural life in this small hot spring town along Katashina Gorge. Shop for fresh, local produce at the morning farmer's market in town, and explore the local streets, shrines and temples. Experience the surrounding nature by hiking to nearby Fukiware no Taki Falls, sometimes compared with Niagra Falls for their dramatic shape. The 7-meter-tall, 30-meter-wide waterfall thunders over the surrounding bedrock. Just to the north is Oze National Park, where you can walk along elevated boardwalks over the expansive marshland. After a day of hiking, unwind in one of Oigami Onsen's many rejuvenating baths, which include rotenburo (outdoor baths) that overlook the gorge.

How to get to Fukiware no Taki Falls

Best for: Art and outdoor onsen bathing

Every two years, this quiet mountain town and its surrounds transform into a contemporary art venue for the Nakanojo Biennale. Installations appear across its valleys and hills in unique settings, including temple grounds, abandoned schools, and forest clearings. Since its inception in 2007, the event has welcomed hundreds of artists and many visitors, contributing to the area’s revitalization. Thanks to the success of the event, Nakanojo now hosts art fairs and other creative events beyond the biennale. After a day of exploring this rural artistic hub, take the opportunity to soak in the area’s onsen baths.

You can bathe in the fresh air at Shiriyaki Onsen, a large bathing spot on the side of a river, where natural hot water emerges from the riverbed. These baths are free of charge; descend the steps to find people lazily reclining in the warm river in all weathers. As the onsen is open to the weather and public view, visitors should wear swimwear, but there is a covered area for naked bathing. Shiriyaki is located in the Kuni no Sato Onsen Area, where ryokan inns dot the river.

From spring to autumn, you can explore the unusual nature at Chatsubomi Moss Park, a geothermal spring with highly acidic water that supports a colony of a rare species of moss. You can also enjoy easy hiking trails around Lake Nozori to enjoy the mountain views and crystal-clear water (note that the road between Chatsubomi Moss Park and Lake Nozori is closed in winter).

Best for: A dip in miraculous waters

The hot spring waters of Kawarayu Onsen are said to have been discovered over 800 years ago, in 1193. The onsen town was relocated in 2019 due to the construction of the Yamba Dam and now enjoys easy access to the dam and Agatsuma area, along with a host of outdoor activities such as kayaking and camping on its shores.

On January 20 each year, the town hosts the Yukake Festival, where men wearing just traditional underwear endure the freezing cold to splash each other with buckets of hot spring water. The festival traces its origins back 400 years to a time when the local springs mysteriously ran dry. When the water suddenly flowed again, the townspeople rejoiced by dousing one another in celebration—a tradition that continues to this day.