At Tamaruya, which traces its roots back to 1582, the process of making udon begins with flour, salt, and water from the clear Mizusawa stream. The restaurant uses three types of flour, including Gunma’s Akagi no Kaze. “The different flours balance aroma, elasticity, and natural sweetness,” says Tamaruya proprietress Ms. Okawara. The ingredients are kneaded and rested, then shaped and set aside to cure, before being rolled out and cut into even ribbons, and boiled fresh. “The time it takes to prepare the noodles depends on seasonal temperature and humidity. At an elevation of approximately 600 meters, this area is relatively cool, making it an ideal environment for udon production,” says Okawara. Tamaruya also serves a vegetarian udon set, with seaweed-infused broth.
Osawaya, a relative newcomer founded in 1970, follows a similar rhythm. From start to serving, it’s a 27-step process. Both restaurants credit Mizusawa’s cool climate and soft local spring water for the noodles’ trademark soft yet chewy texture. “I adjust the day’s process according to the weather conditions, gauging the temperature and humidity on my skin,” says Ms. Saito from Osawaya.
Whether to eat Mizusawa udon hot or cold is up to the customer, but both restaurants recommend trying the noodles chilled as zaru udon, served in a bamboo basket with a dipping sauce. “Cold udon allows you to directly experience the inherent sweetness and umami of the noodles themselves,” explains Okawara. “The firm texture and smooth throat feel are best enjoyed when served cold,” agrees Saito. “We intentionally keep our broth flavor mild to complement the udon noodles.” In winter, both recommend heartier options—Tamaruya’s square noodles, Osawaya’s thick kamaage (straight-from-the-pot) udon, or even their curry udon with extra-thick noodles.
A side of tempura is a common pairing; its light, crisp texture contrasts well with the smooth noodles. Many restaurants here feature local maitake mushrooms for their earthy flavor and crisp bite, and Tamaruya adds seasonal specialties like fried whole Shimonita negi leeks in winter. Shimonita negi leeks are a specialty of Gunma, renowned for their sweet, rich flavor and tender texture. Common garnishes include wasabi, grated ginger, and kinpira gobo (burdock root), which locals sometimes stir into their broth. Some restaurants recommend a dash of wasabi or a sprinkle of shichimi togarashi pepper to add a kick to the noodles.
While their techniques vary, both shops share the same goal. Tamaruya has passed down its methods for more than four centuries, while Osawaya’s second-generation owner grew up watching the craft at the kneading table. Both hope that visitors will remember the supple bite, smooth glide, and rich wheat flavor of Mizusawa udon—and come back for it again.
